Stories
Creuse Region
Contents
Patrimoine NOUZERINES 23
Le Gateau Creusois
Bibliotheque Multimedia Intercommunale (BMI)
The "Menu du Jour" - with Jim …
Farmers' Help
A Nice Idea
Creation et Art de Vivre exhibition
Weekend Festival in Chenerailles
A Romantic Night
Vieilleville Events...
Bastille Day
Flea Market at Bourg D'Hem Le Pays des 3 Lacs
Cruising at Crozant with Sue Barrow
Open Air Pool
New Pipe Organ at Benevent L'Abbaye
Birds of a Feather...
A Tapestry Town
Fishing, Golf & Gardening at Gouzon
Drastic Gastric
Superstar Truffles in the Limousin
La Parroise St Jacques
Les Loups et Le Labyrinthe - The Wolves and the Maze
All Change at the Chateaux
Mediation en Creuse
Gueret News
The Grandfathers Speak
A Summer of Memories
Bénévent l'Abbaye
La p'tite Reine
Les Macons de la Creuse
Ageing Population
Patrimoine NOUZERINES 23
Nouzerines is a small commune of 260 inhabitants who have the responsibility for the upkeep and restoration of communal buildings, notably the church of St. Clair, built at the end of the 11th, beginning of the 12th century. Inside, the transept crossing is surmounted by a dome on a structure set diagonally across the interior angle between two walls to provide a transition from a square to a polygonal or more nearly circular base on which to construct the bell tower. On the back arched ceiling is a mural dating from the 16th century showing God with the religious symbols of Matthew and John. The roof of the nave and bell tower are of slate, while the transept, apse and side chapel roofs are of flat tiles.
The first phase of restoration of the bell tower will cost 152 000 euros. The commune has obtained a grant from the Directions des Affaires Culturelles (25%), from the Conseil General (15%) and an exceptional grant from the Ministry of the Interior (16,4). However, the cost for the commune is heavy.
Therefore, in partnership with the Fondation de la Patrimoine (the Heritage Foundation of France), the mayor and council of Nouzerines decided to make a large appeal for funds to various patrons both private and commercial. In addition, an Association – called PatrimoineNouzerines23 was set up. The Association organises various fund-raising events.
For example, we have held various ‘repas’; we are raffling a watercolour donated by a local artist; we are organising a Music Festival which we hope will become a regular part of local life. This year we have four concerts given by various organisations who are donating their services. Entry is FREE – there will be a retiring collection. PLEASE COME AND SUPPORT THIS INITIATIVE.
The dates are: Sunday 26th June – 5pm – Gospel Choir
Saturday 2nd July – 8pm – Choir from Chatelus-Malvaleix
Saturday 20th August – 8pm – Piano and Accordion classics
Sunday 25th September – 3pm – Choir St. Cecile from Chateauroux
Nouzerines is 10 minutes north of Boussac, 10 minutes east of Genouillac, in the north of the Creuse.
Le Gateau Creusois
I imagine that most of us have bought and eaten le veritable gateau – Le Creusois – this locally produced cake of butter and hazelnuts, they are easily spotted in their red boxes and make lovely Creusois presents - well I recently met the Président of the Association ‘Le Creusois who reminded me of the cake’s story -
Monasteries which thrived during the 14th and 15th centuries fell into disuse and ruin but once upon a time in 1969 in the region of Crocq, here in the Creuse, a parchment was discovered in a hole amongst the ruins. The parchment dated back to the 15th century and was written in old French when translated a delicious gateau recipe was discovered and explained that the cake was cooked in a Creusois tile (Le Creusois can still be bought cooked in a tile).
On finding such a culinary treasure, in order to maintain the tradition and ‘secret’ recipe an Association was formed to safeguard the quality of production, using the best ingredients. Only 31 pâtissiers have the right to bake Le Creusois gateau of pure butter and hazelnuts in Creusois bakeries, 160,000 gateaux per year, and the amount is on the increase but the quality stays the same.
Le Creusois is more than just a cake but part of local culture perfect at any moment with tea, coffee, fruit juice, wine, ice cream, custard! - a real emblem of the Creuse and a huge success (and here’s the recipe but it probably has that ‘secret’ je ne sais quoi missing -
La recette
INGREDIENTS
- 80 g de noisettes
- 110 g de farine
- 4 blancs d'oeufs
- 200 g de sucre
- 90 g de beurre fondu
- 2 sachets de sucre vanillé
- Griller légèrement puis mixer les noisettes
- Monter les blancs en neige
- Ajouter les 200g de sucre puis le sucre vanillé
- Ajouter la farine
- Ajouter le beurre fondu
- Ajouter les noisettes
- Verser dans un moule beurré la pâte
- Cuire 45 min à 180° (Th 6)
Bibliotheque Multimedia Intercommunale (BMI)
The new BMI in Guéret opened its doors last month, situated near the swimming pool overlooking avenue Charles de Gaulle it is difficult to miss this modern, open piece of architecture in the heart of Guéret. Taking 8 years from starting the project to the finish, as the Council emphasised, 'you can‟t have economic development in a cultural desert'. The BMI is a place giving access to culture, open to all and entirely free.
Of course primarily it is a library to borrow books from but with a large selection of CD‟s and DVD‟s, newspapers and periodicals.
The Multimedia Centre has 4 floors, on the ground floor an auditorium for future lectures, concerts and theatre, an exhibi-tion area and children's section. The second floor has its collection of historical documents available to the public. There is also a teenage section, a study area with Internet connection and the music and cinema section and finally on the top floor the administration offices. The quantity of books and documents is impressive (even some in English) not forgetting the choice of CDs and DVDs all in a very pleasant, spacious, long-awaited cultural centre in Guéret.
BMI, 8 ave Fayolle
05 87 63 00 08
Open Tues 12 to 6, Wed 10 to 6, Thurs 3 to 8, Fri 2 to 6, Sat 10 to 6
Free registration, up to 9 documents can be borrowed from 15 days to 3 weeks
www.bmi-gueret.fr
contact@bmi-gueret.fr
The "Menu du Jour" - with Jim …
I'm a typical canny, penny-pinching Scotsman. I know at all times what the prevailing exchange rate is for the Euro. So ten Euros is £8.20 to me; today at least! Now there is a hand-written sign that I pass every time I drive toward Evaux les Bains which says, 'Menu du Jour - 10 Euros'. It's written on a wooden board, and yet its magnetic! Well it draws my eye, certainly. It stands at the end of a dirt road which leads to a restored watermill complex at the opening of a deep gorge on the Tardes river. This road does have another claim to fame. It leads to the viaduct over the gorge which was built by Alexandre Gustave Eiffel. He's the Frenchman who designed and built the Eiffel Tower and also the inner structure of the Statue of Liberty.
Now if I needed an incentive to venture this road, the £8 lunch did that. However, it would appear that I had the chance to kill two birds with one stone! The clincher though, was my wife's monthly visit to our French house and our Wedding Anniversary on 2nd August. This unusual alignment of the planets enabled me to suggest a romantic venue that appeared both well planned and obviously, thoughtfully considered. About 1pm we neared the Auberge through a leafy tunnel of dirt road and found it amidst a tiny cluster of buildings. The auberge is perched over the river bank. It is picture postcard perfect and it transmits a busy hum of happy conversation.
Back in Scotland, we have two options. Pub grub, which is relatively expensive, predictable in choice, but at least it's informal; or:- Restaurant fare, which is expensive for a less predictable choice and usually pretentious. The Auberge resembled neither venue and none of the aforementioned particulars. It was pretty full, with a mixed bag clientele. There were two parties of pensioners; two large family groups, a pair of highway workers and four or five couples. Casually removing my Raybans; which I really should have done outside, and which would have prevented me colliding with the ornate coatrack; I asked, in French, for a table for two. The Lady of the House, in rippling, melodic French, asked if we would like the table under the Gonfalon. Noting that there was only one empty table, I nodded in Gallic nonchalance, and headed purposefully toward it. It sat in front of a large, empty fireplace with a metal coat of arms on the chimney. A Gonfalon - I suppose!
Madame was not fooled. She knew we were foreign and had been lured by the roadside promise of an £8 lunch menu. Although there were two much more expensive lunch formulae, she suggested the 10 euro menu du jour, we both said yes please, and I heaved a misanthropic sigh of relief. Lunch was superb. It was well-balanced, well -cooked, well- presented and well within budget! Four courses which ended with a crème caramel that was lighter even than the final bill. We had basketfuls of bread; a carafe of light, caramel-coloured rose; and coffee to finish. These sundries added two euros fifty centimes to the bill. Eighteen pounds for a four course lunch for two, with drinks.
Yet pleasant as that was, it could not compare with the pleasure of dining in such a relaxed atmosphere, absent of pretentiousness and overstated social etiquette. The other diners nodded or spoke. We were left to linger over our empty plates. There wasn't a tie or a cocktail dress in sight. It was almost like sitting at the kitchen table! We left after 3.30pm; happily surprised that time had flown so quickly. We arrived home; too early for sex, and too late to start gardening. We simply dozed in the late afternoon sunshine; my wife no doubt dreaming of her romantic, thoughtful husband.
Farmers' Help
Following two suicides by Creusois farmers the Chambre d'Agriculture de la Creuse this summer organised a 'listening centre' for farmers under stress.
Perhaps it is not something we consider that farmers are
struggling but according to the President of the Chambre d'Agriculture farmers are living under constant pressure from low incomes, bank difficulties and administration that is too complicated.
In the Creuse agriculture is the major sector of activity with 3,500 to 4,000 farmers, but often with an income that is the
lowest in France, some earning between 3 and 400 euros per month for those with a farm of approx. 100 cattle.
A Nice Idea
Martin Lake told Creuse News about Le Grand Bourg photo album. Geneviève is the force behind this idea of a photo of each hamlet's inhabitants with a written piece to accompany the photos and all put together for posterity and on sale at the Mairie of Le Grand Bourg.
The idea required lots of organisation and determination but what it has done is to bring the villagers closer together, inviting each other in for apéros, offering help where necessary. As
Martin says if this idea catches on elsewhere and pulls people together then what a great move!
Creation et Art de Vivre exhibition
On Sunday 12th September at Le Buisson, Sauviat sur Vige come along, meet the artists, bring lunch to share in this small village.
There will be painting, sculpture, photography, embroidery, basket weaving, laughter yoga and more - all sounds interesting. Entry is free, from 10am to 6pm. 05 55 75 48 25 for more information.
Weekend Festival in Chenerailles
There is a weekend of sport on 25th and 26th September at Chenérailles plus music, food, displays and demonstrations, artisans and dancing, all
organised by Chantal and André at the Tabac/Cadeau shop.
British artists/artisans are welcome to display their wares - no charge. Contact 05 55 62 92 21 for further details.
A Romantic Night
Friday 24th September, 8.30pm at St Sulpice les Feuilles the Opus V International wind quintet will be performing romantic, classical music in the church at St Sulpice, renowned for its acoustics.. For information and bookings contact 05 55 76 70 15 cazalibus@orange.fr or the Tourist Offices at La Souterraine and St Sulpice les Feuilles.
Bastille Day
The 14th July is the Fête Nationale or Bastille Day here and celebrates the storming of the Bastille on the 14th July 1789 and is considered as the start of the French Revolution. So lots on offer on this national day off from communal meals, to dances, fireworks, music and military parades.
Vieilleville Events...
On 4th July it is the large, annual Brocante and Vide Grenier taking palce in the village, open to professionals and non alike, this is a very popular event attracting many stallholders and visitors.
On Wednesdays 14th, 28th July and 11th August there is an evening market in Vieilleville with entertainment and food from 7pm to midnight, a fun and friendly atmosphere is assured.
Flea Market at Bourg D'Hem Le Pays des 3 Lacs
This has always been a favourite spot of mine in the Creuse the area is full of surprising landscapes from steep gorges, lakes and beaches to history and legend.
It was the building of 3 dams by EDF that transformed the Creuse River valley and made it more open to tourism and leisure activities. It is ideal for fishermen; there are manmade beaches for relaxing and swimming and lots of summer activities - kayaking, tennis, pedaloes etc.
Anzême is a favourite spot of mine but I recently visited Bourg d'Hem which also has a beach and a pretty village with a very inviting restaurant - Le Bistrot des Arts, friendly and welcoming David the owner offers a daily midday menu at 11 euros plus evening menus and pizzas to eat in or take home.
The village is holding a Brocante and Vide Grenier on Saturday 24th July from 8am to 1pm, places are free if you want a stand and in the evening there is to be a Pig Roast from 8pm - for all reservations and information telephone David (he speaks excellent English) on 05 55 62 15 31.
Incidentally, there is a bust in Bourg d'Hem of Pierre Maillaud known as Pierre Bourdan, he was the voice of free France from Radio London next to De Gaulle during the Second World War and he took his pseudonym from the village of Bourg d?Hem, he was part of the "Français qui parlent aux Français".
Cruising at Crozant with Sue Barrow
It's hot and sunny and you want to enjoy a lovely day out or maybe you have visitors, especially from England and want to show them the Creuse at its best. I can recommend a scenic trip on the boat (promenade en vedette) which departs from the Hotel du Lac at Crozant. It is truly delightful and coupled with an excellent meal at the Hotel offers a superb insight into some of the history of the Creuse.
Crozant is a small village, just 11 kms from Dun-le-Palestel , set in a remarkably beautiful area. The village is famous for its artists especially Armand Guillaumin who established the impressionist movement and encouraged many other famous artists to come to the area. His sculpture is near the 12 century church in the centre of the village.
The Hotel du Lac is situated just outside the village across the Pont de Crozant and has a balcony and an outside area for diners. Views of the Lac d'Eguzon surround you and the food in the restaurant is not expensive and exceptionally good. It is one of the few restaurants I have found in France which offers not one but two vegetarian dishes and they are excellent!
The boat trip runs from the jetty just alongside the hotel at 2.30 and 4.30 and the only downside is that there has to be a minimum of 12 before the boat will run. We visited initially at Easter but as there were only 6 of us the trip didn't go. This time there were 4 English people and 8 Parisians expected, so we purchased our tickets, took our seats on the empty boat and waited. After a great deal of discussion and much hand waving it became apparent that the Parisians were not going to arrive, so best French to the fore, (thank you Sophie) I pleaded with the boatman to take us explaining that we had been disappointed once before. He gave a Gallic shrug and off we went.
The trip takes about an hour and a half and there is a guide who points out the interesting sites. Additionally there is a translation of her talk into English and Dutch. The cruise runs along the river Creuse to the Eguzon dam and back. The dam was built in 1926 and at the time was the largest dam in the Europe although today it does look rather small and doesn't resemble the Hoover dam in any respect. The construction of the dam created the lake which is 16 kilometres long and it passes some beautiful scenery but also some amazing beachside villages which look very sophisticated and rather like Annecy in Eastern France.
The first site which you see is the castle ruins. The site was initially a fortress built in the 12th century and over the years fell into disrepair. At the end of the 16th century after religious wars and an earthquake, Louis XIII sold the fortress stating that it was in ruins. Today there are hardly any vestiges of the castle remaining but most significant are the three towers called, Isabelle d'Angouleme, (who with her husband Hugues de Lusignan built the castle in the 12th century), Le Renard and Colin. We could not see why the towers had these names as none of them seemed to us to resemble a Queen, a fox and our neighbour in England!
The cruise meanders along the river past the enormous granite rock called "Les Fileuses" which translates as "the spinners". A medieval legend states that the local female spinners took part in a competition to spin a thread long enough to touch the water. The winner was crowned with flowers and given one of the youngest valets. A lovely story.
As you round the bend there are three wonderful beaches, Fougères, Cambon and Bonnu which even has its own castle.. There is a range of leisure activities including fishing, sailing, swimming, water skiing and wind surfing and the houses which are built along the riverbank are almost, without exception, large with stunning views of the water and the boats. It is the most scenic place I have ever been to in the Creuse although as the river runs along, we were informed that one side is in the Creuse and the other is in Indre.
We returned to the jetty at the end of our trip to find the Parisians waiting for the next boat. It was a memorable day and one which I can recommend to you all.
Open Air Pool
One of the few eco friendly municipal swimming pools in France is due to open in Marsac on Sunday 4th July. I did sample the delights of the old open air pool which was lovely but this will be even better, no chlorinated skin or eyes and only five of these pools exist in France.
The water is filtered by a collection of complex minerals and plants no chemicals are used for filtration. At just 2.50 Euros for adults, 1.50 for children between 3 and 14 years old it is a cheap afternoon of fun in the water and all eco friendly, open from Tuesday to Sunday 10 to 12.30 and 3pm to 7.30 pm - see you there.
New Pipe Organ at Benevent L'Abbaye
A new pipe organ, planned for the 12th Century Eglise Abbatiale Saint Barthélémy of Bénévent L'Abbaye, since 2003, is now in the final stages of completion. At 6.00p.m. on Saturday 26th June, Mgr. François Kalist, Bishop of Limoges will give the traditional Benediction of the organ at a Mass in the Abbey. At 8.45 p.m. on the same evening the first concert to the public performed by Georges Lartigau will take place.
The organ, which has 1330 metal and wooden pipes, has been built and installed by Denis Lacorne and a team of craftsmen from his workshop at Carquefou in Loire-Atlantique. Funding for the project has been provided by the Bénévent Commune, the Minister of Culture for the Limousin Region, the Conseil Général de la Creuse, the Parish of Bénévent and private donations. This magnificent instrument will have a triple function; it will naturally be used during services held in the Abbey, but it will also be used for the teaching of students of the organ attending the Emile Goué Departmental Conservatoire. Its' final function will be of great benefit to the general public; a series of monthly musical concerts and recitals throughout the year, the first of which will be the concert on 26th June as mentioned above, which will be free of charge. On Sunday 27th June between 3.00 p.m. and 6.00 p.m. there will be a free 'Open Door' event at the Abbey when various musicians from the Creuse region will perform in the inauguration of the organ celebrations. Further concerts have been already been programmed for Tuesday 20th July at 9.00 p.m. and Sunday 15th August at 5.30 p.m. and dates for the Autumn and Winter will be announced shortly.
Organ recitals will feature works by J S Bach and renowned 19th and 20th Century French composers such as César Frank, Louis Vierne and Olivier Messiaen, and future concerts will present a variety of instrumental and choral works in the stunning setting of this ancient abbey.
A warm welcome is extended to everyone who wishes to share in this exciting development, and if you would like any further information, please contact Yves Josset on 05 55 81 51 44 or myself on 05 55 62 29 68 or e-mail me at pete.wakefield@ orange.fr
Chris Wakefield, Association Musique et Orgue à L'Abbaye, Bénévent.
Birds of a Feather...
Chris Lyons, our 'bird man', me and a rarer species - Peter - outside one of the hides at the magnificent Etang des Landes on the Creuse News bird watching trip. The first rendez-vous had to be cancelled due to snow! So we were smaller in numbers than planned but we were huge in enthusiasm. The setting is just superb, Chris and his knowledge made the visit even more special and the highlight of my day was first of all just seeing an osprey and then seeing it dive and catch a fish, plus catching a glimpse of a Golden Oriole and seeing the purple herons has just fuelled my ambition to go back again, which Chris has promised to do, so I'll keep you informed of our next trip.
A Tapestry Town
Before coming to live in France I think I knew that Aubusson was famous for tapestries, even if I didn’t know where exactly Aubusson was, rather like knowing Limoges is famous for porcelain.
The origins of Aubusson (and Felletin) Tapestries could date back to the 8th century, with the arrival of the Saracens, defeated in Poitiers and seeking refuge in the Massif Central. Or should it be dated back to the beginning of the 14th century with the arrival of Flemish workers, deprived of English wool and called to Aubusson by the Countess of Flanders who was married to the Count de la Marche? Nobody is quite sure but since the Middle Ages tapestry has been as much a part of Aubusson as it is at Arras in Flanders and Gobelins on the banks of the Bièvre river.
The pure and acid waters of the Creuse were perfect for degreasing the wool and for making the dyes. There already was a textile culture in Aubusson and Felletin during the 14th century, Creusois weavers had the knowledge and the history. So for more than five centuries tapestries have been woven throughout the crises of history. At the height of the industry’s prosperity Aubusson was a thriving town with over 2000 people employed in weaving the tapestries.
After going into something of a decline, the artist Jean Lurçat arrived in Aubusson in 1937 and breathed new life into the industry. A tapestry is nothing without an artist to first of all design it.
Aubusson tapestries are made only by hand on a horizontal heddle loom. The weaver works from the back with the front of the Tapestry away from him. He is mainly guided by the model of the cartoon artist, but also uses a mirror to follow the development of his work.
There are many workshops still devoted to the tradition of Aubusson Tapestry, with reproductions of old models such as Gothic panels, 18th century pastoral scenes and the famous Verdures of the 17th and 18th centuries plus contemporary new creations and also restoration work.
A famous Aubusson tapestry is La Dame à La Licorne, discovered in Boussac chateau by George Sand in 1844 and woven in the 15th century. Unfortunately it left the Creuse to be displayed in the Cluny museum in Paris.
As an added aside author Tracy Chevalier has woven a wonderful story around this tapestry in her book the Lady and the Unicorn, reading about it is probably the nearest I’ll get to one of these incomparable wool and colour expressions of mural art woven by the hand of Creusois weavers.
Fishing, Golf & Gardening at Gouzon
PECHE-NATURE -- On 13th May (Ascension Day & therefore a holiday) at Grands- Champs, Gouzon (just off the RN 145) -- a sale and exchange of everything to do with fishing -- equipment, clothing, books, accessories, boats, second- hand and new, entry free, food and drink available.
PLUS - JARDIN BROCANTE at the same time, same place -- you can buy and sell gardening tools, books, machines, pots, garden furniture, fountains etc. So anything and everything to do with fishing and gardening, for more information phone 05 55 62 18 80, you can book a stall up until 6th May.
On 15th and 16th May also at the reservoir Grands Champs, Gozon, 1st NATIONAL OPEN FLY FISHING & GOLF COMPETITION in the Limousin -- Saturday 15th Individual Competition -- Fishing in the morning, golf in the afternoon; Sunday 16th Team Competition -- a fisherman in the morning and a golfer in the afternoon, this promises to be a really interesting event, if you want more information about maybe taking part then phone : 05 55 62 18 80
Drastic Gastric
A new service is being offered to patients by Guéret hospital - gastric band operations for those who are obese. The surgeon, Dr Juvenal Abita said that obesity is classed as a disease mainly because of the consequences of being overweight - diabetes, heart problems, circulation... Many people say that overweight people just need to lose weight but he adds, 'we treat people's livers who have drunk all their lives, so why not overweight people'.
A whole medical team will follow and advise the patient before the silicone, inflatable band is fitted at the top of the stomach thereby reducing its capacity - a loss of 20% in weight is expected after the operation.
You can talk to your GP about this operation or Dr Abita at Guéret hospital.
Superstar Truffles in the Limousin
The worldwide press seems to have jumped on the news of' truffle cloning' in the Limousin. There is so much myth and magic surrounding truffles but in fact the University Laboratory in Limoges in conjunction with the Lycée Agricole are using techniques from 1971 to cultivate and multiply the mycelium 'in vitro' and local nurseries will be growing the suitable 'truffle trees'.
This is a long term project; the fruits of their labour will be seen in 15 to 20 years time, for the next generation truffle eaters.
La Parroise St Jacques
Here are a few words about the catholic parish of St. Jacques to tell you a little about the parish & the activities associated with the church.
The parish of St. Jacques consists of 44 communes and 49 churches, as shown on the map, yet we have only two priests, father Maurice, who is 70 & father François who was 88 last November, so it is clear that they both have an enormous workload! The parish is divided into four parts or 'relais' which are Dun le Palastel', La Souterraine, St Sulpice les Fueilles, & Bénévent l'Abbaye. Each 'relais' has a team or council 'l'équipe d'animation' who do their best to assist & collaborate with the two priests in managing the activities & events in the parish.
Mass is held every Sunday at La Souterraine at 11am and at 9.30am at Dun le Palastel with other masses held from time to time at other churches in the parish, for example, St. Sulpice les Fueilles et Bénévent l'Abbaye. A full timetable is published each month in the newsletter, St. Jaques- info & the monthly newspaper, 'Le Sillon' both of which are available in the foyer of each church where mass is held, or you can contact us for details.
As well as the spiritual life of the parish, there is an active social life which includes such events as the annual 'pot au feu & Lotto' in February at La Souterraine, a welcome & lively event in the middle of the cold Limousin winter.
The church in La Souterraine, which is classified as a 'monument historique' was closed for 7 years because the spire that dominates the town had become unstable and was in need of urgent repairs to stop it collapsing in a pile of historic rubble. Re-opened in 2009 after the completion of extensive repairs & renovation, the church, dating from the 11th century, is a fine example of Gallo-Romaine architecture & is well worth a visit, whether or not you are a practicing catholic, with its ancient crypt, possibly the origin of the town's name, its carved doorway & the superb proportions of the nave. The church is a stop off point on the road for pilgrims following the route of St. Jacques de Compostelle & we see many pilgrims, often English, at our Sunday mass.
The parish of St. Jacques is open & welcoming to strangers, as we experienced after moving into the area from the UK in January 2008, we have received a warm welcome from the parish & have found that the church & the parishioners have helped us to integrate into the society of la Souterraine. We recommend that you join us and profit from the same warm welcome from our church community;
So if you would like to learn more about the life & activities of our Parish please feel free to give us a call on 05 55 63 87 70
Matt Maudsley & Christine Clark- Maudsley
Les Loups et Le Labyrinthe - The Wolves and the Maze
Both of these attractions in Guéret are now open for their new 2010 season. The Parc animalier des Monts de Guéret - Les Loups de Chabrières - is open every day 13.30 to 18h (Feb to Dec) and 10 to 8pm (May to mid-September), entrance from 3 to 8.50 Euros - a real opportunity to see these fascinating animals discover their lifestyle. Just two steps from the wolves is the Giant Maze, miles of fun following the pathways to solve the puzzle of how to get out!
All Change at the Chateaux
The Hotel Chateau Sallandrouze in Aubusson has gone into liquidation, a difficult decision for the 7 South African partners who 'had a dream' and created a 4-star establishment but with occupancy at around 15%, it just wasn't enough. Who will take over the chateau? Only time will tell.
The Chateau de la Cazine in Noth is also changing hands, Richard Savin has the chateau up for sale after only a short ownership, perhaps it will be Barrasford and Bird, an international company with prestigious hotels around the world, who will turn the Chateau into a 'golfing centre' par excellence.
At the Chateau de Saint Germain Beaupré, the financial crisis has affected the plans of chateau owner James Tseliki but now he has found a new partner in Ahu Aysal and hopes to go forward with creating 'un centre de grand luxe'.
Mediation en Creuse
The Association Médiation en Marche has recently been created by 6 lawyers from the Guéret courts.
Corinne Jouhanneau is the President of the Association her and her colleagues have received training in mediation - they must remain neutral and their role is to bring the 2 parties together, advise and perhaps enable the warring parties to avoid a court procedure. This is a free service and you can get more information from the Marie in Guéret or on 06 29 46 41 62. Also on the 3rd Monday and Friday of each month someone is available from 2 to 5pm at the Maison des Associations in Guéret.
Gueret News
An electronic panel now exists in front of the Mairie in Guéret displaying forthcoming events, if indeed you have any news to display then call in at the Mairie. You could also have a look at the town's website www.ville-gueret.fr to keep up with the latest news.
Ageing Population
Between 25 and 30% of the Limousin population is over 60 and by 2030 this will rise to 36%. Over the last 10 years the CPAM of the Creuse (Caisee Primaire d'Assurance Maladie), has worked hard at improving the elderly population's lives - the project being named 'Silver Economy'. The goal was to 'mieux vieillir' - 'age better' - by keeping good health
A great success has been the 'Ateliers Equilibre' with almost 2000 people taking part, giving advice and exercises to maintain balance, avoid falls, good nutrition and sleep - all helping to reduce costly spending on medication, hospitalisation etc.
The average amount spent on medication for a person over 75 in one year is 5238 Euros - the general average amount being 1793 Euros per person yearly.
The Grandfathers Speak (Feb 2010)
Madame Editor, your continuing indulgence in the Grandfathers’ cause is most appreciated. The main theme of this report is buildings. There are numerous well funded public bodies that are dedicated to conservationist doctrine but seem unable to see the difference between protection of the environment and preserving a way of life. 
There are large sums spent on environmental projects but not one Euro out of a hundred spent on rehabilitation of rural housing.
The most essentially vital element of any rural regional planning is to attract a dedicated population back into the rural communities. This is the most important way of reversing the trend of diminishing indigenous rural population, a process not being much different than the Clearing of the Highlands of Scotland by aristocratic landlords. The result is exactly the same only the methods differ, one by force the other by neglect.
The Grandfathers now appeal to your readers to initiate a database of rural houses that have been allowed to remain uninhabited for too long. Some of these buildings are very close to vanishing as the blindly ‘green trees and pathway’ conservationist policy encourages by default, nature to reclaim the site.
Houses should be occupied by people; not by a multitude of wildlife. There are many of your readers that on a daily basis see buildings that should be rescued from decay, not only for their regional architectural importance but as homes. Not all of these ‘at risk’ buildings are hidden in countryside, some of the towns of the Creuse have too many empty properties.
It is now a time to think about adapting that strangely British campaign of Adopt-a -Granny; the Creuse version should be Adopt a Granny’s House. The more dedicated could group together and adopt a Grandfather’s village.
The identification of the buildings for potential rehabilitation will go a long way to saving those buildings. A movement that is pro-active in this way can only be good. When the occupation ratio to unoccupied is at a positive level, then the community will self-regenerate along traditional ways. The old buildings themselves will dictate the lifestyle of the new people. The houses were built for and by the people that would live in them, and were designed to support their way of living. Large ground-floor rooms, big fireplaces with bread ovens, wood-burning cuisinière, caves and greniers for storage of food, and for the most part spring or well water and the traditional night-soil arrangements. They were after all mainly the bourgeoisie and subsistence farmers and for the most part lived off what they produced. Their late eighteenth and nineteenth century housing and farm building, being of better construction, have survived and reflect the various levels of success and the ability of their holdings to support them and their families.
One opinion that attracted a lot of support was that as part of the recruitment and selection process for senior officers to the conservation development boards is that they should be obligated to live in one of the more neglected villages and preferably occupy one of the now vacant properties. This condition of employment will encourage a stronger identity with the environment they are paid to defend:- the ultimate tied-cottage.
All of these ideas will expend resources. The Grandfathers are in no doubt that those that choose to live in this beautiful part of France, have the skills and the passionate dedication to the area but lack only the substantial financial support and personal funds to undertake the reclamation of the more decayed buildings. The Grandfathers look to the settler population to demonstrate their willingness to promote the re-population of neglected towns and villages.
Would-be settlers to the Creuse in their searching viewed buildings that were beyond their means and regrettably had to leave for others. Those that did buy almost derelict buildings have found the costs of the essential work expensive are forced to scale back or even abandon the project. These settlers have been identified by the Grandfathers as being in need of not only encouragement but also considerable financial and technical support if these old Creusoise buildings are to be saved.
All serious stuff so we cheered ourselves up with quite a few glasses of generously fortified vin chaud just to take the chill off as the English would say.
Grand-père Jacques
A Summer of Memories
by Helen Atkinson
WE have been visiting the Creuse for almost 20 years but never spending more than a week or two at the most. However, this year we took the opportunity, because of our newly retired status (there are some advantages to getting older) to spend most of the summer here in this lovely part of France – and what a revelation it has been. Everyone is used to the ubiquitous vide-greniers, brocantes and summer concerts, that are a feature of the season, but there is so much more….
THE TOUR
It started with the Tour de France. The thrill of being able to see the famous bike race that we have only been able to follow on TV. An early start in Marsac positioning for a good view when the time came. There were frites frying and bands playing as the atmosphere built. Suddenly the caravan came through and fully grown men and women started acting like excited children scrambling for the treats and favours thrown from the cavalcade. I got at least 2 caps, several flags, bags, key rings and a fridge magnet.
Then, they were there, the cyclists, some of the greatest athletes in the world. I was shouting for Bradley and Mark, my sister-in-law for Lance, her hero. She was wearing her Lance Armstrong bracelet especially, but their eyes failed to meet across a crowded peloton, and her hopes were dashed ……
Then, just as suddenly they were gone – and we all went home to follow it on TV.
MASGOT VILLAGE
An unpromising and drizzly weekend saw us at the delightful village of Masgot, home of the famous François Michaud, the 19th century mason whose sculptures adorn his native village. They put on a successful weekend of artisan crafts from clog making to basket weaving. Anyone there could try their hand at sculpting and making mosaics, and particularly interesting were the demonstrations of traditional skills from members of ‘Maison Paysannes de France’. These are people who are passionate about protecting the heritage of old French houses and buildings so that they complement the countryside and maintain the integrity of the landscape. Using great skill and knowledge they are happy to advise anyone on sympathetic restoration of their properties.
VASSIVIERE
Lac Vassivière is a tourist hot spot with its many water based activities and sunny beaches, but how many people have visited the fantastic Centre International d’Art et du Paysage’ on the Ile Vassivière? This is a wonderful space for exhibitions, the gallery is impressive with an excellent collection of art books including Andy Goldsworthy (a favourite British artist).
AUBUSSON
A slow ride through Aubusson by calèche (horse drawn wagon) is an easy way to capture the sense of history and industry that lies at the heart of this famous tapestry town. The narrow, hilly streets were easily navigated by the two powerful shire horses that took us on our tour. The commentary en route was in French but our grandson loved it just the same, particularly amused by the ‘poo bags’ attached to the horses.
The Musée Départemental de la Tapisserie in Aubusson was the next stop. There is an amazing exhibition of antique and contemporary tapestry, some on loan from the Louvre and private collections. The most interesting thing for me, having worked in the textile industry in England, was the process itself from the design, the dyeing to the actual weaving. Leaflets are in various languages to explain what you are seeing and we were lucky enough to see a demonstration of the loom at work. It would need a whole article to do justice to Aubusson and Felletin which together forms ‘the great weaving centre of the world’.
SCENOVISION
A fairly new venture in Bénévent l’Abbaye, Scenovision tells the story of life in the Creuse told through the eyes of a girl (Marian) who we first meet in 1879 and then follow through her life up to the Great War of 1914. The story of her life, her marriage, her friendship with and work for, Paul Pellisier, the pharmacist who first invented Le Bénéventine liqueur from the herbs around Bénévent, is told in sights, sounds and smells. The story is divided into 6 sections, each section represented in a different room. We see the countryside in 3D vision, feel the wind on our cheeks and the chill winter. We visit a Creusois café in 1889 and smell lilac at Marion’s wedding to her sweetheart Sylvain in 1892.
Imaginatively it is a triumph, I loved it.
GUERET MAZE
Labyrinthe Géant outside Guéret provided us with an entertaining afternoon. 4 kilometres of maze with one entrance and only 2 exits. You are given a series of questions, mostly geographical, and the correct answer points you in the right direction. If you get the answers wrong you could be in for a very long day. Definitely one for the kids and the Forêt de Chabrières is worth exploring.
RESISTANCE MUSEUM
Peyrat le Château in the Haute Vienne is home to a small but poignant Musée de Résistance. The collection of exhibits is beautifully and sensitively put together to tell the story and do honour to the maquisards of the whole region during the Second World War. Georges Guingouin was the first maquisards of France (he died not too long ago) but the museum is not just about him; there is so much information here, sacrifices made by ordinary men and women to help the maquis, feed them, hide them and face torture, deportation and death for the cause of liberty.
The section about women and the resistance resonated with me, many were captured and sent to Ravensbruck concentration camp and there are some heart rending sketches by one of these women prisoners of ‘life’ in the camp. This was a sober and reflective visit but a fitting testimony to all those who gave everything for their country.
BRIDIERS
The ‘Historic Fresque’ at the Château du Bridiers, defied the threatening rain and was a spectacle of spectacles – another triumph for the Creuse.
The Creuse is an amazing place, I love it here. Not because I have an idealised view of it, as some bucolic retreat, safe from the modern world, set in some kind of time war. To think like that is to do the Creuse and its people a disservice.
Life was hard here, in the countryside, in the towns, for the weavers and the masons and the farm labourers, and to some extent still is. There has been an exodus of young Creusois looking for employment elsewhere. It is a region highly dependent on agriculture and EU subsidies and the vagaries of tourism, but to me it captures the heart and soul of France. The people are amongst the most hospitable you will find anywhere and their kindness genuine. The depth of its culture and its history as well as its rivers and forests will keep me and my family returning time and again.
(Thanks to Dot and Dave at the Corner Shop in Farges for the use of their gîte and their extreme helpfulness, making this a great stay).
Thanks to Helen for her own personal tour of the Creuse and for bringing to life the sights and history of the area, she did so much and yet there is still more to come back for. Her account certainly knocks on the head those moans I often hear from some people that ‘there is nothing to do in the Creuse’. - Editor
Bénévent l'Abbaye
A small, lively village in the west of the Creuse and is the major town of the canton which consists of 10 communes with some 3495 inhabitants, 852 of them living in Bénévent itself.
The beautiful 12th century Abbey dedicated to St Bartholomew is a major landmark and attracts many pilgrims, the town being on the route de St Jacques de Compostella (route Vézelay). The town should be busy with pilgrims this year, 2010, as it is a Holy Year for St Jacques and the town of Compostella in Northern Spain is expecting 10 million visitors.
But, on with the virtues of Bénévent – Scénovision, a museum of sounds, smells and images, tracing the life of young Creusoise Marianne at the end of the 19th century; Hôtel du Cedre and its restaurant, open from March to October; the tourist office, bars, baker’s, butchers, supermarket, hairdresser’s, in fact pretty much everything you need.
Pascaline Maume at the mini-supermarket VIVAL in the high street in Bénévent, is a hard working lady providing a sort of multi-purpose ‘corner shop’. Not only is she a grocer’s but also a newsagent’s stocking foreign newspapers, which can be ordered, providing photocopying and fax services and also an Internet connection point. Pascaline stocks delicious, locally produced cheese and offers a very interesting idea for a gift – you take along a basket and she will fill it with fruits or cheeses at whatever budget you decide on.
Sophie and Bernard Gentil have recently opened a Brocante/Souvenir shop in Bénévent, BROCANTES 23. They are particularly interested in the 30’s and 50’s and have on display, old cars, signs etc., of the era but also lots of furniture on show giving a cosy atmosphere to their shop. They can also find items that people may be looking for. Open from 10 – 12 and 3 to 7, closed on Tuesday and Wednesday afternoons – well worth a visit if Brocantes are your passion.
And there’s more – Yves Carré has opened ADOSDANES – his passion being donkeys you can find all sorts of donkey themed products from egg cups, puzzles, lamps, books, toys, soaps etc.. in his recently renovated shop. Yves has 4 donkeys and in the future will perhaps be renting them out for walks, even to Compostella, as he himself has already done the ‘route’ to Spain. Next door to the shop Yves is also renovating a gîte for pilgrims and walkers as a stopover point. The shop is open every afternoon from 2.30 to 7.
So, there you have a little taste of Bénévent, perhaps one of the livelier, developing towns of the Creuse with a historic heritage worth taking advantage of.
La P'tite Reine
After an interesting night out at the theatre in Aubusson, we decided to go for something to eat in the town centre. We walked down one of the little back streets in search of somewhere that took our fancy and it was then a choice of the pizza place or the pancake restaurant and thankfully we chose the crepes.
As when we stepped in, low and behold there was Michèl and Christine, a couple who I used to be friends with and we’d lost touch for about 10 yrs. They played a big part in my seasonal work in Corsica as they found me the work placement in a fantastic restaurant near Porto Vecchio. The restaurant even had its own harbour where the millionaires’ yachts would moor up and be just a few stone steps away from our restaurant. Magic. Well, all that seems just about a million and a half miles or kilometres away now, and it is another story……..and I’m becoming side tracked….nostalgic………
OK, La P’tite Reine, (which means bicycle in french cycling jargon,) uses a special hand made flour which is ground and produced in Finistère, Britanny, the savoury pancakes are made with this unique buckwheat flour. There are over 30 different galettes (savoury pancakes) to choose from, I personally went for an original filling with braised chicory and crème fraiche, the chicory really was braised and not boiled, but of course if nothing appeals to you on the menu then you can always make up your own filling with the vast selection of ingredients on offer. Followed by a sweet crêpe for your pudding if you can manage it.
I am assured that all their produce is carefully selected and chosen to give you only the best on your assiette. Back to the name of the restaurant, Michèl is a keen cyclist and the restaurant is adorned with several old photos of famous cyclists and general cycling paraphernalia, mixed in with a little traditional celtic deco.
He has offered to show any experienced cyclists the surrounding areas of Aubusson. He doesn’t want to play the tour guide to families of 4 as being an experienced cyclist it could be quite gruelling and the idea is for both parties to enjoy it after all. Contact him at the restaurant for an afternoon ride out.
I must also recommend Michèl’s tomato and mozzarella salad, which, with his secret vinaigrette recipe and small, detailed touches he manages to turn it into something that is quite his own and which I am very happy to have discovered again 10 years later - it’s still fantastic!
Les Macons de la Creuse
The region of the Creuse (which incidentally means ‘a hollow’, conjuring up an image of water running through a valley which so depicts this area of land being criss-crossed by rivers, streams, rivulets and lakes) is still somewhat ignored and neglected by many French, having a reputation of being barren, wild, cold and inhabited by chestnut eating peasants (nothing new there then! I’m one of them!) However, most French can recall from their history lessons the stories of the famous maçons de la Creuse (masons/builders) and I wondered if you knew their tale too, because looking at the history of the Creuse and its people can lead us to understand the Creusois character of nowadays.
The young Creusois of our era very often migrate to towns or cities to study or to work and so it was in the past, only then the migration was on foot. For centuries men migrated from the Creuse to earn money far away on building sites in the towns. Life has always been hard in this rural spot and for many ‘self-sufficient’ smallholders the only way for their families to survive was to go on the long walk to Paris or Lyon(and other cities) becoming an itinerant builder to earn money. Many of the buildings in the large towns of France were built by the celebrated maçons de la Creuse. Much of the Paris of the late 18th and early to mid 19th centuries was built by men of the Creuse – Le Panthéon, Louvre, Versailles.
Perhaps it’s difficult to believe but in 1808 11,000 men left the Creuse to work, in 1820 15,000 and in 1830 24,000. This was when the population was approaching 300,000 not the 125,000 it is today. The masons of the Creuse differed in that they didn’t just leave but they also returned like migrating birds, these trips were always called a ‘campaign’, – the mass departure took place in March after the snows, temporarily abandoning their farms to wives and children and returning in November with the money earned to buy a new plough, a cow, do repairs or to repay loans and debts. It’s hard to imagine walking to Paris , particularly when there were hardly any ready made roads.
How it came about that the Creuse provided the labour to build France is due probably to the poverty of the land – growing crops wasn’t possible and clearing the stony fields by hand produced some expert stone workers, we can still see the walls and houses (we’re living in them!) It was a hard life,living in garrets in Paris and with many accidents on the scaffolds.
There is a very famous Creuse maçon – MARTIN NADAUD- you may have seen his bust in front of the mairie in Bourganeuf, schools, squares and even a metro stop have been named after him. He was born in 1815 in Martinèche a village near Pontarion (his house is due to be made into a museum), this self-taught Creusois builder became the people’s representative in 1848, was politically exiled to England (he was a revolutionary) where he was a teacher in 1852 and later became Préfet of the Creuse, Municipal Councillor in Paris and MP for Bourganeuf, one of the first working-class MP’s. It’s an amazing story for this once semi-literate Creusois peasant to rise to one the the major jobs as Préfet – he was loved and admired by many. He first left the Creuse with his father to walk to Paris in 1830, he was just 14 years old. You can read his full story in Gillian Tindall’s lovely book – ‘The Journey of Martin Nadaud – a life and turbulent times’
Maybe this explains the tough, hard-working, often isolated life in the Creuse which has created the strong, sometimes wary Creusois character who find it hard to accept changes and for whom land is their richness but who can be incredibly kind and generous, isn’t usually those with the least give the most.
Anway, here’s the famous MACONS DE LA CREUSE song (a good translating exercise for you) –
Les voilà donc parties
Pour faire leur campagne
Ils s’en vont à Paris,
En Bourgogne, en Champagne.
Ils sont fiers, et d’ailleurs
S’ils ont la main calleuse,
Ce sont des travailleurs
Mes maçons de la Creuse.
Voyez le Panthéon,
Voyez les Tuileries
Le Louvre, L’Odéon,
Le Palais de l’Industrie –
La France est orgueilleuse ;
Soyez reçonnaissants
Aux maçons de la Creuse
